Stalls are an important fixture in Nairobi. They fill in the gap between major retailers and the high end shops. See, you will find retailers provide variety and quality that you won’t find in supermarket chains such as Nakumatt, and at a price more affordable than Little Red’s, or the CAT stockist on Moi Avenue, where a typical shoe will set you back Kes 11,000.
Well, there’s a catch with the stalls though, the stuff is second hand, and you never know who might have worn your item’s previously.
On the upside, you will get to dress in designs such as authentic Marks & Spencer and Clarks.
The pricing for the items, though second hand, you’ll be surprised to find is higher or equivalent to that of new items at the supermarket. However, at least you’ll be sure that your shirt won’t have “bubbles” under the cuff and collar in a few months.
Some of the places that you can find the mitumba second hand stuff include Sun Beam, a five floor building along Mfangano Street opposite the Rahimtulla Library. Here you will find second hand clothing ranging from shirts, dresses, Egyptian cotton sheets, shoes and even trench coats. The vendors here usually select the best of the second hand stuff at Gikomba market and sell it at more of a premium, but the stuff is still quite affordable.
Here, shirts will be between Kes 700 and Kes 1,000 while sheets and duvets will set you back between Kes 1,500 and Kes 3,000. Dockers Khaki trousers and jeans will range between Kes 1,000 and Kes 3,000.
Gikomba market off Landhies road is another such place, but it’s a bit off town. You can catch Number 7 matatus to the place off Luthuli Avenue though. I hear the best time to visit the place is the morning, when traders are unpacking new arrivals. You may want to avoid visiting the place if it has rained in the last few days, or do so with a pair of gumboots due to the sludge.
At Gikomba, prices will start at Kes 5 for a variety of items, and you will find the widest variety of items here. The downside is that you have to go through the stuff yourself and watch out for damages such as holes and permanent stains. Some traders however do stock select items with little damage or markings, at a premium. The place is however expansive, with sections dealing with specific items. There’s a shoe section, a bag section and so forth and so fifth on.
Another open air market closer to town is the Ngara area. This starts at the junction of Kirinyaga Road and the end of Accra Road. There are open air hawkers dealing in a variety of garments. The market stretches over the Nairobi River and into the larger Ngara area along Murang’a road, where you can find shop stalls stocking the same. The pricing here is moderate and also the variety. The quality varies from high quality selected items to poor quality ones.
If you are afraid of venturing from the Central Business District, but still need some mitumba, then your best bet is at the Jamia Stalls just off Kimathi Street. However, that be warned due to the location and it’s high rent, the prices here tend to be quite crazy. Traders here however choose the best of the second hand stuff.
When visiting these stockists and others, you should be aware of a few issues as I will detail below.
As I pointed out earlier, the items tend to be top Western design labels, such as Timbaland. A good number of people visit these outlets so that they can get to design in these labels. The supply of second hand items tend to be erratic, especially when faced with high demand. Not the kind to be discouraged, traders will at times go for counterfeit items to fill in the gaps in stock. I have seen a stall filled with counterfeit Clark shoes being sold at Kes 3,000 a pair.
Warning signs that you are encountering a counterfeit include mitumba products that appear quite new, with little wear and tear. Shoes with brand new soles should make you suspicious. The counterfeit Clarks shoes and Dockers trousers I have seen in the market are made to resemble the actual product, and are even overdone at times looking even better than the authentic product. The look however wears off quickly – trousers may be starched to stiffen them.
Also, when visiting these stalls, sometimes you do enquire about an item, and you find that the shopkeeper doesn’t stock it. The shopkeeper will then offer to either go bring you the item, or take you to another stall where they stock the item. It is not advisable to buy the item at this point, as the pricing will include a commission for the initial shopkeeper for “bringing a customer”. If possible, claim the item doesn’t interest you, then return for it at a later time and day and bargain below the previous “final” price.
You should also be weary of what appears to be dirt, or discolourations on items, especially if you are not a regular buyer from a particular shopkeeper. The shopkeeper will advise you that the discolouration can be “easily” removed through normal washing, only for you to later discover that the discolouration is permanent. Also watch out for tears and bursts, or excessive wear along seams and high wear areas such as collars. For wearable items, you can put your head into the item to easily spot tears and holes. Also, items that sound like quite a bargain with some discolouration are usually too good to be true. Most traders try to clean their items to make them presentable, hence presence stains might indicate that they are permanent.
Another common trick is dyed items. Some well worn items get a coat of dye so that they can look newer and hence fetch a higher price. It’s easy to sport such through the consistent coat of dye on the item, and dye spills over hems and seams. Such dyes however quickly wash away exposing the true faded colour of the item.
As a general rule, if possible, do avoid buying items from hawkers, especially under the glow of streetlights. Yellow streetlights do distort the true colour of an item. A cream sweater will turn out to be pink in daylight. In addition, hawkers will convince you to buy wrong sized and ill fitting items as they aim for a quick sale.
I rarely believe in quotes, but Warren Buffett’s quote will come in handy when visiting these stalls. “Never ask a barber if you need a haircut.”
So, Mark & Spencer, anyone?
UPDATE: 11/01/2013: Matatu route to Gikomba is number 7 not 8. Edited to reflect the same.